EDITOR'S DIARY: AIM HIGH Photographs by Jay D Will, Epping Forest 

When we featured the stunning up-coming Grenadian model Aria Francis in a dangerously high leg one-piece by Gillian. E. Murray Designs here, it warranted a response from the designer that led to this eventual interview. I opened my inbox to read, ‘All I can say is Wow!  The world of us women needed you so.  I am so very blessed by your hard work, Always, Gillian’. Let me be sappy and say, it bought a tear to my eye, for if this is how issues of ComplexdWoman make women feel, we’re never going to stop! When I found out more about this woman I wasn’t disappointed. From her heartfelt reply I realised that the inspiration and encouragement we feed to our readers was something Gillian needed to continue fulfilling her dreams, fighting for the acceptance for her Down Syndrome son and battling through a divorce. When I got a chance to wear one of her pieces I wore it with pride and sass, and hope that women who wear Gillian’s pieces do the same to motivate her  through her personal challenges. So, without further ado, I present Gillian. E. Murray’s ComplexdWoman story.

baby gillianA baby Gillian 

Name: Gillian E. Murray
Age: 46
Occupation:  Fashion Designer; Clinical Social Worker
Place of birth:  Jamaica
Current residence:  Kingston, Jamaica
CW: Tell me more about your début collection shown at Caribbean Fashion Week (CFW), 14 and the white one-piece swimsuit I’m wearing?

GM: I called my collection ‘Natural Geometry’. I wanted to join elements of geometry, such as angles and lines, which I feel compliment female curves.  My goal is to show that the curves of the female body can balance states of asymmetry. I’m also a lover of global art and history, initiated by my schooling experience here in Jamaica, where I learned Caribbean, American and European history. It really awakened my appetite for learning about different civilizations, era artists and those unique symbols which identified them, such as the Egyptians, Greeks, Aztecs and Indians, which all converge into one global word for me: “Detailed”.  All of my inspiration comes from the world, art and history, which blend well with Jamaica’s multi-cultural motto, ‘Out of Many, One People’.


CW: How did your fashion label Gillian .E. Murray Designs come about?  

GM: I entered a small-scale fashion show at the last-minute with the help of a wonderful seamstress. I presented six pieces in two weeks and unexpectedly; I received a good review in the press so it encouraged me to do more. I learned everything I could from attending fashion shows in Miami, watching Fashion T.V, to connecting with one of Russell Simmons’ old employees. I am a rebel by nature and I like to make sure I’m offering something unconventional as opposed to following trends. Designing is my gift and I don’t want it to be altered by conventionalism. I must admit that I put my label on hold for a while when I had my beautiful baby boy Daniel, who has Down’s syndrome, but I’m back!

CW: We loved your jaw dropping one-piece at CFW, 14! Did your son inspire the comeback?


GM: I design gowns as well, but I think the swimsuit market has been flooded with the same cuts and styles for the longest while.  The only variety is in the colours and fabrics so I decided to do some unique and racy pieces.

After my two beautiful daughters I thought I had finished having children, then, Voila, a happy shock of my life, an XY – boy to boot. We soon learned some disheartening news after my prenatal screening, which revealed my unborn son had Down’s Syndrome. I clearly remember crying for my unborn son and the fact that I may outlive him and may not be there to protect him. I knew it was going to change my life forever, but I took it one day at a time to find inner strength and embrace this new life I was expecting.

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When my son, Daniel Christopher was born, it was the most beautiful experience and reinforced the power of finding natural beauty in natures error. Daniel’s needs forced me to become a stay-at-home-mom and it was a major adjustment, after all I obtained a Master’s degree in Clinical Social Work from Barry University. My son’s needs connected the dots between my formal education and my dream, which was to develop my fashion label. My son is my hero; he changed my life dramatically and has been the crux of my evolution and revolution. I am now a woman who stands for truth, courage and fearlessness. With my gowns I plan to create bespoke works of art for auctions to raise funds for agencies that aid the disabled. My aim is to start in Jamaica, then infiltrate the region and eventually the rest of the world.

CW: What challenges have you come up against in Jamaica being the mother of a child with Down Syndrome?

GM: Most of the challenges lie in the stigma attached to having a disabled child. I am fiercely protective and proud of my son. Some of my in-laws wanted me to stay quiet about his condition, but I refuse to let their embarrassment be our issue. It’s my intention to educate him about his diagnosis as much as I can to offset the eventual day when he asks me why people treat him differently. There are relatives who insist that he will “grow-out-of-it”, sometimes I try to educate them and other times I know it’s just their way of empathizing with me in the best way they know how.  It has led me to speak with Jamaica’s Down’s Syndrome Foundation who’ve been excellent and allowed me to share my knowledge with others in a similar situation.

Gillian E. & Daniel

CW: How do you plan to raise social awareness for children with disabilities through fashion?

GM: I hope to raise awareness a little at a time by being bold, proud and ready to educate anyone willing to listen. I even hope he will agree to walk with me on catwalk in the future, I know he’ll love the photographers’ flashes.  I want him to be seen as an equal because we are all created with elements of weakness, which is where we eventually discover our greatest strengths.  It seems that there is uncharted beauty in imperfection.  For me, an extra chromosome in the road is not the end of the road. It is my hope to help bridge the social education and perception gap that affects the difference in the tolerance levels in the Caribbean. Giving gives me joy and in this case, giving to agencies that support the disabled is the goal. Donations in dollars can increase prenatal care for women over the age of 35, provide food and medication for mothers in need and accumulate more accurate census data and real live birth recordings of DS and other special needs children in the Caribbean. It will also help to seek greater international and local funding for early diagnoses and intervention and find disabled home-birthed babies and children in rural areas. Providing early assessment and education intervention will help our disabled children to become more productive members of society with skills that will allow them to defend themselves and their ability to vie for opportunities.

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CW: What makes you a ComplexdWoman?

GM: I am a Fashion Designer, Clinical Social Worker and Special Needs Mother to all!  I have a very high stress-tolerance level, which has allowed me to manage hits and misses all at once.  Life has taught me to weather multiple storms, from all directions and always survive.  I no longer try to please everyone.  I have learned to never say never, but more importantly, I have learnt about Murphy’s Law, not to ever let these words escape my lips again: “What could possibly be next?” I learned that freedom is a state of mind and is definitely worth having and holding.  I am me…with no apologies.  I dare to take risks despite challenges and change is my favourite BFF.

For more information email Gillian on gilliane.designer@gmail.com or shop the collection at Shop Caribbean Fashion 

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NEWSFLASH: There’s a new Afrodisiac in my hometown and she’s serving up an array of robust rum cocktails and mouth-watering Jerk Pitt dishes. All of this to the backdrop of reggae melodies that soothe the spicy blends on offer.

This Afro lady I speak of is none other than a rather enticing large-scale painting adorning the wall of the newly opened Turtle Bay Restaurant in Ealing – an authentic Caribbean dining and drinking experience in West London.


For the last few weeks, I’ve been peering through the windows and giving a nod of approval at the interiors, which replicate food huts in the Caribbean down to a tin enamel plate. The launch party was pretty awesome too; with the restaurant rammed to the brim and canapés fresh from the flames of the Jerk Pitt, there was enough heat and humidity to throw on a bikini.

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This week I finally got to sample the menu to give my Island girl seal of approval. After devouring my Jerk Chicken drizzled with a creamy jerk spiced sauce, each bite took me back to my roadside pit stops in Jamaica, coming very close to the authentic Caribbean experience.

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Executive Head Chef, Collin Scott and General Manager, Derek Casey poached from Jamie’s Italian by Founder Ajith Jayawickrema both expressed their love for West Indian food and the laid-back island vibe, which Turtle Bay captures for British foodies to experience. It also helps that the bar and table staff are as attentive and friendly as the warmth received from a Caribbean food vendor on the daily hustle.


Executive Head Chef Collin sandwiched between the ComplexdWoman team

Although not a specialist in Caribbean cuisine, the menu was meticulously researched and lovingly created by Chef Collin who has 27 years of kitchen experience. When I asked him whether Turtle Bay’s menu matches up to ‘mamas’ cooking, he declared, ‘nothing could ever beat your grandmothers cooking. When I’m developing the menu, whether it’s Trinidad Curry Chicken or Rastafarian Run Down, I focus on giving diners a taste of the spices and flavours each island has to offer’.


The Turtle Bay Restaurant concept manages to pack the spirit of the Caribbean under one roof.  The buzz surrounding the new location in Ealing gives you that Friday feeling even when you’ve got Monday blues. If you’re a reggae, soca and dancehall lover, the playlist will have you beating your glazed jerk pork bones on the enamel plates and if you just appreciate darn good design, the shipping container fixtures and drum barrel washbasins will certainly catch your eye and have you instagramming everything you see like me.

Chef Collin hinted at more rapid restaurant openings in London so watch out Brixton, who knows… you could be next!



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The National Carnival Queen Show, which takes place in St. Georges, Grenada tonight (7th August, 8pm, AST)  is a platform for young Grenadian women to compete for the title of Carnival Queen. Writer and Poet Sherry Hamlet a.k.a. The Wordy Phoenix seeks to discover the motive behind women entering pageant contests.

Unboxing Beauty 

1507878_10152298895536215_1917141252_nSherry Hamlet Photographed by Teddy D. Frederick 

I am a Caribbean woman with a visual impairment and albinism. My journey to self-love and acceptance has been a long one with many pit stops before hills and valleys of overcoming depression, anger, insecurity and nonchalance, to a place of adoration and acceptance.  Society has never been interested in difference much like it is today. Modern media exalts uniqueness, showcasing it as something to be proud of and aspire to. We’re now being told to embrace our natural hair, redheads are being praised for their rarity, freckles no longer noticed as flaws and a social media meme culture dispersing the message that ‘men like women with curves’. A very contradictory message compared to the magazine covers and music videos of the past few years.

1979892_10152298895541215_623167068_nPhotograph by Teddy D. Frederick 

Although these are positive changes, this positivity surrounding unique beauty was not present when I was growing up. When I looked in the mirror or at family photos all I saw was difference that was not being gloried by the media.  Even today on the streets of my own country, where over 80% of the population are of African descent I continue to be verbally and sometimes physically harassed in public, but I am fortunate to have grown with the love of a mother who has never once made me feel indifferent. I was always told I have my father’s nose and long fingers and my mother’s high cheekbones, tiny waist and broad hips. My mother stands beside me at all times fighting for my right to equality and for me to be happy with who I am. Beauty is not about proving that I am worthy, I do not  ascribe to the battle for the right to be called a woman, wear lipstick, heels or a skirt, for I have given myself the right to live and look however I feel.

1380499_10152294486191215_1345829409_nPhotograph by Teddy D. Frederick 

Which leads me to why I have never liked beauty pageants, viewing them as another opportunity for women to be placed in a box and judged. In my opinion, beauty is to  cultivate a culture of self-love from within. But growing also means that you must consider multiple perspectives, even the one you inherently mistrust, hence my curiosity to discover more about the pageantry world.

In the Caribbean, queen shows or pageants continue to be crowd-drawing events. The contestants represent their country or village and venture before bright lights and scrutinising stares in the hope of ending victorious. I have always wondered what makes a woman wake up one day and decide to compete for the title of beauty queen. So much so she is willing to stand before a panel to be judged for the cause.

 securedownloadNational Queen Show contestants via www.facebook.com/Discover Grenada 

In my home country Grenada, we are currently getting ready for the ensuing carnival season, part of which sees the crowning of the Carnival Queen. Leading up to The National Queen Show held tonight at the National Stadium, there are also community-organised pageants held in parishes across the island.

Earlier this month, The St. Andrew Developmental Organization (SADO) hosted the Rainbow Caribbean Queen Show, which took place in the parish of St. Andrew.

To answer my burning questions about the motive behind pageantry, I decided to speak to two contestants who took part.  Nikesha Phillip and Jaynell Phillip residence of the parish of St. Andrews are in their late teens. Jaynell, an experienced pageant girl, shared her experience of competing in pageants in the Caribbean, confessing that her enthusiasm grew from a small voice of motivation heard from her parents, then echoed in her community. Jaynell admitted that her first pageant experience was stressful without a sponsor, but her determination was fueled by her belief that pageantry is not just about displaying external beauty.

rainbowNikesha and Jaynell Phillip (far left) and the other Rainbow Caribbean Queen Show contestants pose with Soca artist Patrice Roberts 

‘It’s not just a fashion show’, and when asked to comment on what makes a woman beautiful she said, ‘when you feel beautiful you emanate beauty.’ Jaynell went on to share that the impetus to show an open-minded crowd the beauty a body can convey from the inside through the vehicle of pageantry, makes the entire experience worth it. With her continued participation in such activities she serves to motivate young women to believe that beauty is much more than styling and clothing but ‘poise, character, posture, intelligence and dignity’.

For Nikesha, a first timer, this is more of a personal journey. Nikesha admits her primary motivation contrasts the experience of her pageant mate Jaynell and sums up her motivation as fear. But her fear is not of being judged or failing. Nikesha challenged herself to find the desire deep within to push herself to the forefront in order to tackle her fear of public speaking and to gain hands-on life experience. She explained that preparations leading up to the Rainbow Caribbean Queen Show have taught her about her health and body and the ability to traverse her own country and get to know popular touristic sites.

What I found interesting was how pageantry had given her newfound perspective on self-worth and respect as a woman. She admitted that being a part of the pageant has made her more aware of her body language and the message she conveys with her choice of clothing and words. ‘The most beautiful thing about a woman is her mind’, Nikeshia declared. She hopes the experience will help her educate her peers about the importance of being a noble woman who inspires youth and members of society to appreciate themselves.

Indeed, heavy is the head that wears the crown as it does not simply sit upon the head of a woman who sees herself as worthy to be the fairest of them all, at least this is not the case for participants of the Rainbow Caribbean Queen show. For these young women in Grenada, a pageant crown is recognition of individuality, community support and self-worth. It is a collective vision and lifestyle of self-acceptance. This crown, although given on a stage, sets the stage for motivating and uplifting other women despite the harsh realities of their lives.

No situation is ideal; there will always be those who see this opportunity as one to gain attention, but it reassure me at the very least, there are those among us, who are driven to pageantry for a much more humanitarian cause and that the fight to unbox beauty is the motivation of some women within the beauty industry and pageantry itself. I’ve learnt that some of these women, are silent soldiers poised for battle in gowns with weapons at their disposal; their actions and their voices.

Shine on,


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Eau de par-fumes combined with the peppery perspiration of an eight-hour commuter can only mean one thing… HEATWAVE in London! Despite the unpleasant fragrance of frazzled Londoners these past few days, I’ve been acting like a ‘resort wear don’t care’ island gal amidst this concrete jungle. Let me explain. Unswerving sun during the summer season is a very rare occurrence for British folk. So much so, ‘they’ (not moi) drop their panties at the first flicker or flare. This tends to happen towards the end of April when the sun starts to tease us, and when it does put on a blinding show, all scantly clad hell breaks loose.



I like to keep it cool and classy at all times, so these wide-legged shocking neon resort pants by Trèfle designs are perfect for the sticky weather. I met Kristin Fraser the Founder of Trèfle designs at Island of the World Fashion Week in Nassau, Bahamas over five years ago. As you may have seen from previous posts, I’ve built long-lasting connections with a lot of the creative talent I met during the week long showcase and it has been positively inspiring watching their creative ventures grow.





Photographs by Jerome. D. Williams 

Kristin was born and raised in Tortola and is the third generation in a family of women who have a keen eye for colour and fashion design. She interned with Carolina Herrera and BCBG Max Azria, (two major powerhouses who understand the female form) an experience, which inspired her to launch Trèfle designs. She established her label in the summer of 2008 with the vision of creating a highly recognized clothing brand that would be appealing to women, men and children both nationally and internationally.

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I caught up with Kristin to find out what’s new with Trèfle designs while constructing my master plan to turn around to the beautiful backdrop of the British Virgin Islands I’ve seen in her collection shots.

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Name:  Kristin Frazer
Age: 30
Occupation: Fashion Designer/Shoe Buyer
Place of birth: Tortola, British Virgin Islands
Current residence: Tortola, BVI

trefle designs

CW: How has the brand evolved since we last met at Islands of The World Fashion Week in Nassau, Bahamas?

KF: The brand has grown tremendously with two new areas of apparel focus. I have since launched a Resort-wear line with lightweight fabrics for women and a Swimwear line called Trefle284 for girls. The children’s line is a representation of my country’s area code ‘284’ and will feature collections that are bright, fun and on trend!


CW: What’s ‘a day in the life of’… Kristin Frazer like?

KF: My long nights don’t allow me to wake up as early as I should, but since I’m also a manager and shoe buyer for the family business on Tortola, I am awake from around 7am and I try to have orange juice and oats to get me going until lunch. I often work through lunch, between dealing with shoes, fabric vendors, contacts and customers for both Trefle and the family business and the addition of emails, social media and everything in between, I pretty much have very little time to breathe… but I love it all!


CW: What are the challenges of building a fashion label in the Caribbean?

KF: It hurts to invest time and money in people or companies that literally waste it (whether it’s production, samples, marketing or fashion/trade shows) as if there is a money tree growing in my yard, but these challenges help to build me up. They push me in a positive direction to strive for more success.

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CW: Can you buy Trefle Designs online?

KF: This is a development I am currently working on. Before I started Trefle in 2008, I recognised that I was from a small country that has big potential globally. I am one of those people who look at the bigger picture in terms of putting fashion on the map while lining up the beauty and natural oasis of the British Virgin Islands as the ultimate getaway destination. The idea was to merge Trefle & the BVI together and I am getting there one day at a time. Anyone interested in retail/sales can contact me via customerservice@trefledesigns.com


CW: What makes you a ComplexdWoman?

KF: I never let negative things keep me from excelling in all areas of life. A humble state of mind will carry me to places unknown.

To view Kristin’s collections visit www.trefledesigns.com 

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An Ode to Caribbean Self-Awareness

IMG_0897-1Shop The Runway: Gillian E Designs available at ShopCaribbeanFashion.com 

“Fashion is not something that exists in verses only. Fashion is in the sky, in the street… fashion has to do with ideas, the way we live, what is happening.”

Coco Chanel

           Though consistent in its impact, its ability to pique interest, desire, disgust even, fashion is by nature ever-changing…and yet it manages to maintain a common thread – its brilliance in creating beautiful pieces from the most basic of inspirations. It is for this reason that Caribbean Fashion Week (CFW) – the region’s first major fashion production – remains a celebrated calendar event, pulling fashion followers and global media to the National Indoor Sports Centre in Kingston, Jamaica, each year to absorb the latest runway offerings. It’s no secret that Caribbean culture and fashion – especially Jamaican – have a far-reaching impact on the wider world, and as such, the 14-year-old show is always on the hot list of international fashion events to attend. Our fashion incorporates a kaleidoscope of cultural influences spanning the continents and weaves it all together with what makes us unique – our edge, spirit and survival instinct.

cfw 01Glam: Model Diedre’ Mckenzie at the Fashion Gala at Audi Showroom in Jamaica 

cfw 05Budding: Up-and-coming designer Kurt Campbell 

You never know just what you’ll get on and off the CFW runway. You can find anything from a taste of Asia, to remnants of European colonisation, gothic influences, pieces inspired by our biodiverse environs, dancehall music and the hustle and bustle of life in the streets. This year was a bit different. Black, white and red were staples in a number of collections shown last Saturday and Sunday. So, too were tropical prints, dancehall influences, and yes, the bubble hem is back. And, of course the newly introduced shopcaribbeanfashion.com website, launched at Saturday’s show which presents the opportunity to shop the collections right away.

cfw 06 Stunners stand out: Pulse Model Alyssa Wells

What spoke to us most was the message, be it stated or implied, in the collections that charmed us with playfulness and reeled us in with a call to action. There was an unwitting synergy of sorts, a shared consciousness with the designers for the two-night showcase where the emergence of the self-loving, culturally aware Caribbean individual was celebrated. It was all about Afrocentrism and ethnic pride drawn from a melting pot of diverse cultural influences. On the runway – Pulse’s striking Sue-Dionne Lewis, internationally acclaimed Pulse model-come-actor Oraine Barrett, fresh-faced visitor Vanessa Davidson (a Jamaican based in New York City), and ComplexdWoman darling Grenadian model Aria Francis, (whose Nell Robinson-reminiscent glide we absolutely adore) – were among those representing that fact. It was a declaration of ultimate ‘Caribbeanness’ and African awareness illustrated by emerging and established designers from the Caribbean, UK, Canada, America and Benin. Here are our picks for the most effective messengers at CFW 2014.

complexdwoman magazineNew Face: Grenadian Model Aria Francis getting some industry tips from Jamaican Supermodel Oraine Barrett

Yvonne Jewnell

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This year’s winner of the Caribbean Fashion Week Emerging Designer Award, 17-year-old Parsons graduate Yvonne Jewnell, jetted in from New York to make her mark on the CFW runway. Her unique collection of beaded, hand-painted fabrics in neutral tones and pops of red featured unconventional silhouettes, which, despite being influenced by many cultures was mired in black identity. Little wonder she rose to the top of a pool of nine hopefuls to claim the award.


Guadelopean designer Anicee Martin’s elegant collection paid homage to Yoruban Orisha Ochun, the goddess of love, intimacy, beauty and wealth. We loved the understatedly opulent prints and effortlessly seductive fabric movement. She managed to present a well-edited package around the theme, simultaneously incorporating elements of traditional Guadelopean dress with hints of gold, lively colours and layering.

Alicia Mullings

There was no mistaking the powerful black historical symbolism in British designer Alicia Mullings’ collection, starring Marcus Garvey and prints featuring imagery of African queens for good measure. Her wide leg tailored pants, midi skirts and bomber jackets were well received.

Vain Glory – Old Harbour Babe


Jamaican designer Jehan Jackson debuted her Vain Glory collection with a resort wear line dubbed Old Harbour Babe in reference to Old Harbour, St Catherine, Jamaica – her mother’s hometown. Think sophistication, ‘tropico’ and dancehall sass – rattan visors and floppy hats (an oversized basket, too) for drama. Light, airy outfits featuring hand-made textiles brought Old Harbour’s landscape to life with a touch of ‘plantocracy’ to bring it all together gloriously.

Mariska’s Designs

Sonia Noel is no stranger to the business of fashion. She’s been one of Guyana’s leading designers, fashion event organisers and boutique owners for over 15 years and has even dressed Michelle Williams, former member of Destiny’s Child. Her line, inspired by her daughter Mariska, was elegant and regal. Her latticework-inspired pieces, be it in tent shapes or floor-length gowns, flowed down the runway and made for a refreshing take on Guyanese sensibilities, African roots and global influences.

Honorine Amoussou

We expected much from Amoussou as a representative of the motherland and she certainly delivered. The designer, who hails from Benin, captivated eyes and hearts with the customary rich fabrics and vibrant colours of the African continent in a fresh and modern way. Her collection was well curated and beautifully accessorised, driving home the point that we are, after all, the descendants of Kings and Queens.


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Continuing the regal trend for the two-day fashion showcase, the Mutamba collection by Jacqueline Cohen was an absolute delight. She has been making a cultural statement with her prêt-à-porter line long before tribal looks became the rage, and yet her pieces are still always refreshing. This year’s impressive collection featured Mutamba’s signature Rasta-chic looks in breathable fabrics. She used solid black, crisp whites and vibrant colours to create practical, comfortable and elegant looks that still managed to bring the sexy (cue jaw-dropping cut-out evening dress). We loved the pocketed scarves most – trendy, unique and light for summer, plus you can slip one on in cooler climes when your hands need some extra warmth.

Save the Buccoo Reef

Though she officially started her career after graduating from the Caribbean Association of Fashion and Design in 2012, Delia Alleyne is quickly becoming one of the region’s most influential designers. She was part of a contingent of designers from Trinidad and Tobago to show at this year’s Caribbean Fashion Week – where industry giants such as Meiling Esau and Robert Young of The Cloth hail from.


Her 14-piece ‘Save the Buccoo Reef’ collection, composed of net, linens, charmeuse and iridescent gems, though not teeming with Afrocentrism, was undoubtedly one of the strongest exhibited on Saturday. Inspired by Tobago’s 10-acre endangered tourist attraction Buccoo Reef, her daring pieces speak to the ComplexdWoman in a seafoam palette. She showed embellished, attention-grabbing ensembles for all occasions – from leggings to playsuits, circle skirts to ball gowns – in an attempt to use her creativity for good. She is passionate about the environment and our need as Caribbean people to take care of our home, our legacy, and hopes to wake up the public and entice her government into a partnership to protect the reef. We love her collection and applaud her efforts.

As Karl Lagerfeld rightly said, “…fashion is not only about clothes – it’s about all kinds of change.”

Report by Tameka Coley

Photographs by Henry Robinson 

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